Size your solar & inverter system in the next two minutes.

How much solar do you actually need for a 1.5 ton inverter AC?

A 1.5 ton inverter air conditioner is the single biggest electricity user in most homes that have one — and it's usually the appliance people are trying to solve for when they start looking at solar. Running at roughly 1,600W once it settles into normal operation, an AC used for 8 hours a day adds close to 13 kWh of daily demand on its own, before you count anything else in the house. That's often more than half of a typical household's total solar sizing target.

Running load vs. surge load — why both matter

Every compressor-driven appliance — your AC, your water pump, even your fridge — pulls far more current for a second or two at startup than it does once it's running. That initial pull is the surge (or peak) load, and it's typically 1.5 to 3 times the running wattage. A non-inverter 1.5 ton AC that runs at 2,200W can surge past 5,000W when the compressor kicks in. Your solar array is sized around your running and daily energy use, but your inverter has to be sized around the surge — undersize it and the AC simply won't start, or it'll trip the inverter every time it tries.

The 25% safety buffer, explained

Inverters are rated for continuous output, but real households rarely run appliances in isolation — a fridge compressor might kick in the same moment your AC starts. A 25% buffer on top of your combined peak surge load gives the inverter headroom for that overlap, for voltage fluctuation, and for the fact that inverters lose a little capacity as they age. It's a standard, conservative margin used across the industry rather than a number specific to any one brand.

From appliance list to panel count — step by step

1. 1. List what you're running and for how long. Add each appliance's quantity and the hours you actually use it per day — an AC used only at night is a very different load than one running all day.
2. 2. Total your running and surge watts. Running watts × quantity, summed across everything, gives your continuous load. The same sum using surge watts gives your peak load.
3. 3. Size the inverter. Take the peak surge load and add the 25% buffer — that's the minimum inverter rating you should be shopping for.
4. 4. Turn daily watt-hours into daily kWh. Multiply each appliance's running watts by its quantity and daily hours, sum it all, and divide by 1,000.
5. 5. Divide by your sun hours, then by system efficiency. Daily kWh ÷ peak sun hours in your region ÷ 0.80 (accounting for panel, wiring and inverter losses) gives your required array size in kW — and from there, panel count is just array watts divided by the wattage of the panel you're using.

Appliance wattage reference table

Surge figures marked "~" are typical estimates for that appliance class — check your own nameplate rating where precision matters.

Understanding regional sun hours

"Peak sun hours" isn't the same as daylight hours — it's the number of hours per day your location gets sunlight at an intensity equivalent to 1,000 W/m². Northern Europe and the UK average around 3.5, most of North America around 4.5, South Asia and the Middle East around 5.5, and Australia or the Sahara region can reach 6.5 or higher. The same appliance load needs a noticeably bigger array in a lower-sun-hour region — this is the single biggest reason two households with identical electricity bills can get very different solar quotes.

Reading your payback period

Payback period is simply the point where your cumulative electricity savings catch up to what you spent upfront. It isn't a flat "cost ÷ annual savings" division, though — panels lose a small amount of output every year (degradation), while grid electricity tends to get more expensive over time (inflation), and those two effects pull the real payback point in opposite directions. The calculator above runs both year by year for 25 years to find the actual crossover, rather than a rough average.